Even fine dining’s optimum-profile restaurateurs confess that their industry’s enterprise design is damaged and requires an injection of creativity.

Hit hard by the pandemic, restaurants have had to re-build themselves more than the previous couple a long time by accepting takeout orders and reinventing their menus. But the pandemic and ongoing staffing shortages have also exposed that the good dining organization is fragile and may perhaps not endure in the post-pandemic age.

One particular high-profile restaurant that is gambling on reinvention is Copenhagen’s Noma, regarded as to be amid the world’s best. The restaurant declared on Monday that it will shut its doors to normal provider in 2024, but the closure will not be the close of Noma’s manufacturer.

The cafe will return in 2025 as a “giant foodstuff lab” where by the kitchen area will be “dedicated to the do the job of food stuff innovation and the enhancement of new flavors.” The new Noma—dubbed Noma 3.0—will create pop-ups all over the world, when mostly focusing on expanding decisions for its e-commerce Noma Jobs line, which marketplaces experimental recipes and products and solutions to person prospective buyers. The enterprise explained that “being a cafe will no for a longer period define” the Noma brand.

The Copenhagen locale could reopen in the long run, even so, for seasonal menus and pop-ups.

The reinvention comes as high-quality dining finds itself at a crossroads, as the business makes an attempt to drop what Noma co-owner and head chef René Redzepi claims has turn into a performing design that tends to bleed personnel dry. From extensive several hours to serious actual physical calls for, doing the job in the kitchen area or on the restaurant flooring can be 1 of the most demanding professions.

“We have to completely rethink the sector,” Redzepi reported in an job interview with the New York Times published Monday. “This is just much too really hard, and we have to get the job done in a distinctive way.”

Reinventing an marketplace

Because opening in 2003, Noma has revolutionized the culinary environment with its exploration of “New Nordic” eating and a concentration on nearby and seasonal solutions. The 3 Michelin-starred restaurant that topped the influential World’s 50 Greatest [hotlink ignore=true]Places to eat checklist for the fifth time in 2021 has a menu that includes flower-pot-like cakes and ducks that have had the top rated of their skulls surgically eliminated.

In his interview with the Situations, Redzepi stated huge alterations for the restaurant were a very long time coming, as the pandemic unveiled to him that the design that Noma’s accomplishment was based on has simply just come to be impractical. The head chef claimed that protecting food costs that are substantial more than enough to present aggressive salaries to almost 100 workers is untenable in the latest industry, echoing the affordability difficulties lots of cafe homeowners are struggling with because of to rising foodstuff charges and pandemic-fueled improvements in how diners try to eat.

“It’s unsustainable,” Redzepi stated of the industry in its current condition. “Financially and emotionally, as an employer and as a human staying, it just doesn’t operate.”

Even prior to the pandemic, cafe workers ended up some of the most stressed-out workforce around, and staffing issues ended up a substantial headache for kitchens. In 2016, for each 10 restaurant workers, seven of them did not stay in the similar career for far more than a yr, even though about 50% of cafe operators stated in a 2019 report that staffing was their biggest issue.

Dealing with clients, prolonged get the job done several hours, and very low pay are the driving forces driving the cafe industry’s higher turnover amount, but those people exact problems are magnified in great eating with greater expectations and stakes. Redzepi himself admitted that the grind “wears people today out” with several hours of “hard, grueling, small-paid out perform.”

Reports have circled for decades that Noma depends on minimal-fork out foreign workers whose visas rely on the cafe and unpaid interns who risked getting positioned on an intercontinental blacklist if they still left ahead of their contracts ended up up. Noma began spending participants of its internship plan last calendar year, but quite a few graduates interviewed by the Times stated it experienced failed to are living up to anticipations, with some criticizing Redzepi’s administration model.

“It’s a Mafia mentality, and he is the don,” Lisa Lind Dunbar, a Danish activist and field veteran, mentioned about Redzepi. “No one defies him publicly or privately.”

Neither Noma nor Redzepi responded to Fortune’s ask for for comment on the allegations.

Redzepi told the Periods that restaurant staff would preferably be authorized to perform “four times a week,” and operate much less hours total with far better spend. But the present high-quality eating design does not make it possible for for that because the substantial calls for of the field and the intense kitchen area operate put into execution however call for employees to routinely work 16-hour times. Reduced-brow dining places, nevertheless, have pushed on to make this kind of changes to help offer with the industry’s ongoing staffing woes.

Early very last year, the New York City–based relaxed cafe chain DIG announced it would introduce four-day workweeks for its 500 hourly staff members. Also past yr, fast-food chain Chick-fil-A took it a phase forward by presenting three-day workweeks to all of its workers.

This story was originally highlighted on Fortune.com

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